Part 3: My Grail Watch... That Doesn't Exist - Yet

If you’d like to skip the details to review a summary list of what makes this option a potential candidate for my grail watch, scroll to the bottom of this part.

Prior to reading this submission, please review Parts 1 and 2 of this series - if you have yet to do so;

Number Three

Rolex Explorer 314270

Source: Rolex

The Rolex Explorer 214270 (Mark II) is gorgeous. While I prefer the numeral font design of a more vintage Explorer (à la Reference 1016), I don’t despise the modern 3-6-9. The elements I love about this instalment of the Explorer most are its Mercedes handset, the shape of its oyster case, and its long-lasting bluish Chromalight luminescence.

Without a doubt, there’s a lot to like in the 214270. But, it’s not my grail. However, it could be well-positioned to become just that should certain adjustments be made. Frankly, it wouldn’t take much. The newest version isn’t that far off.

The following suggested changes could be packaged and sold as the Rolex Explorer 314270. This proposed watch is included in this series because its conception is reasonable enough to sustain some hope that Rolex may actually produce something like this some bright, shiny day.

So, let’s get into it. What needs to happen to transform the 214270 into the 314270?

Source: Xupes

As mentioned above, the case shape of the 214270 is spot on. However, its dimensions are not. From my perspective, an Explorer can’t be larger than 36mm. The Explorer isn’t just a tool watch – it’s an elegant tool watch. At 39mm, the 214270 is taking up too much wrist real estate to maintain the Explorer tradition of modesty and reservation. The 314270’s diameter should shrink 3mm to the time-tested 36mm (much like that of the Explorer 114270). The lug to lug measurement should follow that reduction accordingly, coming down from 48mm to 44mm. As for the thickness, there should be concessions made there as well. At its current 12mm thickness, the 214270 does comply with my parameters established in Part 1. However, that’s 12mm with a flat crystal. The case’s thickness should be slimmed to 10.5mm.

Speaking of the flat crystal – that just won’t do. The 314270 will have a domed sapphire crystal, bringing the overall watch thickness to 12mm. Oh, and Rolex – please, for the love of God, have an open mind about adding anti-reflective coating to the crystal.

Source: Rob’s Rolex Chronicle

Next on the docket, the clasp. There’s nothing wrong with the 214270’s Easylink extension. It’s just that the GlideLock clasp exists. Slap that puppy on the 314270’s oyster bracelet, because it’s objectively better.

Nothing should need to be changed in the movement department. Rolex’s Calibre 3132 has the same 28.50mm diameter as the Calibre 3130 that was housed in the Explorer 114270’s 36mm case. I see no reason to introduce a new movement for the 314270.

Source: A Blog to Watch

Source: Vintage Times

Regarding the handset, hour markers and numerals, keep the design style for all but make them steel instead of white gold. Also, scale down the size of the 314270’s dial appliqués, in keeping with the reduction of the watch as a whole. As a side note and as I said earlier, I definitely prefer the 1016 numerals to the more modern interpretations found on the 214270. However, for what they are, I do give praise to the team who conceived their design. It’s clear to me the modern numerals are a nod to the vintage Arabics. Reason being, when you look at a 1016 from a certain angle, the domed acrylic crystal stretches and distorts the numerals, causing them to resemble the stout, horizontally accentuated 3, 6, and 9 of the current day’s design.

Lastly, flatten out the black colour of the dial. The 214270’s dial is too reflective. An Explorer’s dial shouldn’t capture light, it should repress it. The 314270 will have a subdued matte dial.

That’s number three – the Rolex Explorer 314270.

MSRP for this imaginary beauty - $6000 CAD (approximately $4600 USD).

Recapping the Roadmap for the Rolex Explorer 314270:

  1. Reduce the 214270 (Mark II) to 36mm in diameter and 44mm lug to lug.

  2. Replace the crystal with a domed anti-reflective sapphire.

  3. Ensure the watch’s thickness is no more than 12mm.

  4. Swap out the Easylink extension clasp for the superior GlideLock.

  5. Replace the white gold clad handset, markers and numerals with steel versions.

  6. Introduce a matte black dial, instead of the reflective version featured on the 214270.

By making these changes, but keeping the rest of what the 214270 has to offer the same, Rolex would make me and quite a few others happy campers. I understand why Rolex pushed the Explorer up to 39mm. However, the market’s appetite is quickly going back to from whence it came. There’s a small window where Rolex can maintain its brand identity of influencing the market, instead of complying to its demands. Releasing a new 36mm Explorer, sooner than later, will keep them ahead of the curve. However, the opportunity to seemingly create the momentum instead of responding to it is closing quickly. Do it, Rolex! Do it now, so you can live up to the image you wish to project and we (the consumers) can get what it is that we want.

To see what the next option is in my grail watch dreams, click here.